The One With A Gold Neck
Christine Rose Sebastian
FY B.Sc. ‘27
source: www.southindiatravel.com
Each visit to my grandmother’s home in Erumely, nestled in the Kottayam district of Kerala, used to follow a predictable pattern – arriving, spending 3-4 days, meeting relatives, and then returning home. However, my most recent trip marked a departure from this routine, thanks to the Sabarimala season. Despite engaging in the usual activities, such as connecting with relatives, this time around, the experience was exceptionally enriching.
As I journeyed to my grandmother’s place, I encountered a sight I had never seen before: a massive gathering of men dressed in black, all seemingly gearing up for a significant event. Intrigued, my mother took it upon herself to share the captivating story of Lord Ayyappa with me.
According to mythology, a child born out of the union of Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu’s female avatar, Mohini, was abandoned on the banks of the Pampa River. There, the child was found by King Rajesekharan, the emperor of the Pandalam dynasty. Rajesekharan, who at the time didn’t have any children, decided to take in the child as his own and name him ‘Manikandan’. This name translated to “one with a gold neck” since he was found with a gold chain around his neck.
When Manikandan turned 12, he embarked on a journey to fetch his mother a tigress’s milk to cure her illness. It is said that his mother, under manipulation, faked her illness so that Manikandan would endanger his life, thereby giving her biological son a chance to the throne.
Manikandan, being the devoted son that he was, went to get his mother a tigress’s milk. On his way, he happened upon Mahishi, the sister of Mahishasura. He bravely battled her, resulting in her death. Pleased by this, Lord Indra assumed the appearance of a tigress, and on this tigress, Manikandan returned to his kingdom. The king went on to build a shrine for Manikandan on top of the Sabarimala, where Manikandan assumed the divine form of Lord Ayyappa.
Upon concluding her insightful narrative on the Sabarimala pilgrimage and its cultural significance, we approached a cherished landmark along my route to my grandmother’s house – the Vavar Mosque. From my earliest memories, I held a deep affection for this mosque, captivated by its beauty and the praises my mother consistently showered upon it. However, upon reaching the mosque during this particular visit, I witnessed an uncommon scene. The black-clad Sabarimala pilgrims, whom I had encountered earlier, were now entering the mosque, engaging in prayers before continuing their pilgrimage. The spectacle left me genuinely amazed. Sensing my surprise and curiosity, my mother proceeded to unveil a poignant tradition associated with Lord Ayyappa, particularly resonant in today’s complex political landscape.
Legend has it that during Mandikandan’s (Lord Ayyappa) quest for milk for his mother, he formed a friendship with Vavar, a Muslim, who aided him in defeating Mahishi. Mandikandan then urged Vavar to remain in Erumely and later instructed his followers to first visit Vavar before proceeding to meet him at Sabarimala. Consequently, whenever the Sabarimala pilgrims embark on their roughly 50-kilometer journey to the hilltop temple, they initiate their pilgrimage by entering the mosque.
The devotees enter the Vavar mosque to offer prayers as they begin their pilgrimage to Sabarimala
Source: personal pictures
In the entirety of my life’s journey, never have I encountered such a breathtaking confluence of two religions. Witnessing this harmonious blend ranks among the most remarkable experiences of my life. Undeniably, it serves as a stellar illustration of the secular ideals our country could aspire to achieve!
The Sabarimala Sree Dharma Sastha Temple doesn’t remain open year-round. It welcomes worshippers on the initial day of each Malayalam month, along with Mandala pooja, Makaravilakku, and Vishu. Unlike other Ayyappa temples, visiting this sacred site requires adhering to a mandatory 41-day fast, commencing on the first day of the Malayalam month Vrishchikam, typically starting in mid-November. The pilgrimage culminates in mid-January with the joyous celebration of Makaravilakku. Drawing millions of devotees annually, it stands as one of the world’s largest and most significant pilgrimage destinations!